This guide is aimed towards people painting up the necron half of the Indomitus boxed set or one of the new starter sets who are aiming to get their cranky robots onto the table as soon as possible. This isn’t a definitive guide and steps can readily be swapped out or ignored completely.
A note to any new hobbyists that might be reading this: When I first started in the hobby I felt a lot of pressure to paint to the standard on the box art – this is not how you should approach your first army. It’s better to start with a simple scheme that can be built upon later once you’ve got a bit more experience under your belt. The scheme below is just one such example so don’t be afraid to experiment with your own ideas.
Now, without further ado, here are the steps that I took to paint my necrons:
Undercoat the model with Leadbelcher. You could brush this on over a black undercoat but I use a spray can to apply this to save time.
Next, to add some variety to the silver metallic details, I apply a coat of Basilicanum Grey contrast paint to the joints on the model. I also apply this to any dents in the model and as a recess shade to define the detail that will stay light silver.
I then hit the casing on the weapon and the cables with a layer of Black Templar contrast paint.
To add some visual interest to the model. I applied a layer of Runelord Brass to the face mask, weapon details and the ribbed cables that are scattered around the model.
For my dynasty, I decided to use Gal Vorbak Red to apply a marking to the forehead of the warrior. If I was painting a larger model or one with more details I would pick out additional areas with this colour.
To prepare the eyes and weapon for the green glow that is commonly associated with Necrons I coat these areas with white paint. I thin this with water in a 2:1 ratio to ensure that the paint gets into the recesses.
After a layer or two of white paint I apply Tesseract Glow to the details that we picked out in the previous step.
Now for the fun part – weathering and shading in one step! I mix Burnt Umber oil paint with white spirit in an approximate 3:1 ratio. I don’t want the paint to cling to the model rather than behaving like a traditional wash. A good way to check if the paint is ready is to apply some of it to the walls of whatever container you are mixing in. If it runs down the side you need more oil! Once the mix is ready I apply it all over the model – ensuring that every area is evenly covered.
Once the paint has had a moment to settle on the model (usually the time it takes for me to make a cup of coffee is enough) I use a dry earbud to begin to remove the oil applied in the previous step taking care not to remove the oil from the recesses or parts that I want to remain grungy. Then I use an earbud dipped in a small amount of white spirit to wipe the oil from the raised surfaces that I want to brighten back up to the underlying colour, i.e. the glowing parts and edges of the armour panels. It’s best to think of this step as painting in reverse.
Now all that remains is to base the model and apply weathering powder. I wanted a stereotypical red desert for my base and this was the result: